Friday 3rd January 2025

Bhaktipur : Patan : Farewell Gala Dinner

Today, we went directly to visit Bhaktipur, we were looking forward to exploring more of the ancient city. The city is also referred to as ‘City of Devotees’ and it is home to a large community of ‘Newari’ people. It is also home to our informative and friendly guide Sudan.

The last major earthquake here in Nepal was in 2015; it killed almost 9,000 people and injured over 20,000.  Although the ancient city of Bhaktipur suffered  only minor damage, many houses were razed to the ground. This sadly included the home of Sudan and his family.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our group have gone through the Golden Gate to visit the fountain. As we did this the other day we are admiring the temples’ detailed stone carvings and marvelling at the structures which were built centuries ago.

A young family stopped to chat with us. Sonya the daughter spoke outstanding English. She attempted to teach us the phrase, “What is your name” in Nepali but I’m afraid we weren’t very good pupils!

In the Potter’s Square, we watched a potter making money boxes.  He used a long pole to get the large wheel rotating quickly, and in no time at all, the pot was completed.

 

Once the piece had dried, either in the sun or in the kiln, the hole for the coins would be made.

The square is quite big; many stalls on its perimeter sell the pottery. There are masks of gods and goddesses, ornamental plates, jugs, wind chimes and much more.

 

In the centre of the square, some of the freshly made pots lay drying in the sun.

 

 

 

 

 

Melina and Sudan asked if any of us wanted to visit the Changu Narayan Temple, or if we preferred to have extra time in Bhaktipur.  The temple is considered to be one of the oldest in Nepal.  While we were looking forward to seeing it, we decided to have the extra time in Bhaktipur, as did the rest of our group.

All of us wandered off in different directions agreeing to meet up again at the time given to us by Melina.

Dave and I found ourselves back in the Dattatreya Square and wandered down the street with the famous peacock window.  Walking, this time, further down the street we realised that the peacock window that we had seen and photographed a couple of days ago was not actually ‘The Peacock Window’.

The 15th century intricately carved window is also referred to as the ‘Mona Lisa of Nepal’.

It is an excellent example of wooden fretwork that can be seen throughout the Kathmandu Valley.

 

Back in Taumaudi Square, we again admired the shrine at the Bhairavnath Temple.  The square is also known as Taumaudi Tole, the word ‘tole’ translates to market area.

 

 

 

 

 

At the shrine we attempted to converse a little with a lady and her grandson, we were a little surprised to learn that the lady was the same age as Dave.

They kindly agreed to us taking a couple of photographs.

Saturday is Nepal’s day of rest, so there are many folks strolling around. There are family groups, little girls are dressed in pretty frilly dresses, their parents in their ’Saturday best’. Girlie groups are taking videos of each other and also selfies. Small children are chasing the many pigeons. There is a happy atmosphere!

The light is different from when we visited the other day so once again we are taking many photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we were wandering again, I noticed a view of hills down a small opening, so we started to walk in that direction. Two young school girls saw us approaching and one of them (in perfect English) said “There is a tournament; it’s a traditional game, come and have a look!” So, we did!  The students were clearly enjoying themselves. There were happy faces and lots of fun and laughter.

 

 

 

 

 

Our final stop of the day and indeed our adventure in Nepal was the ancient city of Patan.  Once again, while we were travelling there, Sudan told us interesting information about the country and its customs.

The majority of the population of Bhaktipur are Newari people.  One of their rituals is that when a girl reaches the age of nine or ten, they are married to a fruit.  The fruit is a bael fruit (wood apple).

The ceremony known as ‘Ihi’ or ’Ehee’ ensures that when they grow up and marry, if their husband passes away, they will not be classed as a widow. In Newari society, it is frowned upon to be a widow.  The women can remarry at any time.

In Nepal, just a few years ago, it was taboo to get divorced but nowadays the rate increases annually.  Last year, more than 40,000 divorces were filed.

Homosexuality became legal in Nepal in 2007 but is not generally accepted.

While Bhaktipur is well known for its wood carvings, Patan is known for its metal work.  Patan along with Bhaktipur and Kathmandu make up the Kathmandu Valley. The ancient city of Patan is also known as Lalitpur (its original Sanskrit name) meaning ‘City of Arts’.

After leaving our transport, we walk through an extremely busy market street; this is apparently the oldest market in the Kathmandu Valley.

 

Once a city in its own right, Patan is now classed as a suburb of Kathmandu.

Soon we arrive in the Durbar Square, as in the other two Durbar Squares, many temples and shrines stand opposite the Royal Palace Complex.

This place is incredible!  Unfortunately, we only have one hour of free time, I need a whole day (at least)!  Sudan led us into the Royal Palace to explain some of the history and to show us the Royal Baths.  However, Dave & I decided to wander the square. After telling Melina we would meet her and the rest of our group at the stated time, we hurried off to explore.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So much to see, so little time, however we feel so fortunate to have had a  glimpse of this incredible ancient city.

Being non Hindus we are not permitted into the temples. The architecture (mainly Newari) in Patan’s Durbar Square is spectacular.  But, how I would have loved to have been able enter some of the sacred interiors.

For a couple of minutes we  sat in awe gazing at the wonderful scene of Patan’s Durbar Square while our group was gathering, then Sudan started to lead us  through the city’s streets to our waiting transport.

While there are many Hindu temples in Patan, there are also many Buddhist Monasteries and also Stupas.  Indeed, Patan is considered to be one of the ancient cities of Buddhism.

Anne said that we were walking in the direction of the Golden Temple and she wondered if Sudan was taking us there.  I admit I was unaware of this famous Buddhist Temple. For the first time ever, I hadn’t picked up one of our guide books since we had arrived in Nepal, there had been no time…

However, I knew our itinerary inside out and almost off by heart.  I had researched the places that we were scheduled to visit but nothing else.  Pete & Anne however, had researched a little more and learnt about the Golden Temple.

When we reached a street corner, Anne pointed to the temple but Sudan turned left again. She grabbed my hand and said quick run, so I did, as Dave shouted after us “where are you going?”  Once we reached the temple’s courtyard, Anne instructed “Go!”. As I entered the temple I heard the man on the desk shouting “Are you Indian?”, but I knew Anne would explain.

 

 

 

 

 

As the name suggest the temple and its artefacts were almost all gilded in gold.  The three storey pagoda style temple is home to original Tibetan Scriptures.

I was only in the place for about three minutes, (I was conscious of us having to catch up with the others).  As I left, I quickly paid the nominal entrance fee to the cashier and started to leave. “Your receipt”, the man said, “it’s okay” I replied. “Take it”, he insisted “As a souvenir” he added.  So, I quickly thanked him and took it, Dave was waiting for us outside and the three of us jogged and soon caught up with the rest of our group.

Anne explained that they had only remembered about the temple a few minutes before they had to be at the meeting point.  Unfortunately, they hadn’t had the time to go upstairs as the cashier had suggested, but at least they had seen some of the stunning temple.

Once more, our day has been fabulous… After leaving our hotel at 9am, we returned at 5pm.  It is the Farewell Gala Dinner this evening and we are leaving again at 6pm.  Unfortunately, there are only Pete, Anne and ourselves who wish to go. Like us, many of the Greeks don’t like hot and spicy food, some of them are extremely tired and plan a few hours sleep before dinner.  At home (in Greece) dinner is typically served much later.

On the way back to the hotel, it was good to see the young crowd get off the bus in the town, perhaps heading for a coffee or a beer, the brothers and sisters and other youngsters had all become good mates.

The transport was waiting for us at 6pm and six  more of the group joined us on the bus. They were heading into the modern part of Kathmandu, and we dropped them off near the Hard Rock Café.  The area was such a complete contrast to the ancient cities of the Kathmandu Valley.

 

 

 

 

 

The meal was traditional Nepalese as we expected, but as often happens at these ‘tourist events’, the spices had been toned down which was fine with us.

Of course, our table was for 26 and there were just the five of us which was a shame. The traditional dancing was interesting.  The whole event lasted just a couple of hours.

After leaving us at the hotel, Sudan would travel by motorbike to his home in the ancient city of Bhaktipur.  He informed us that at this time of evening, it would probably only take him around 30 minutes.

It will be sad to leave Nepal tomorrow; we have had an absolutely amazing adventure.  Although we have never really fancied a group tour before, we have thoroughly enjoyed the dynamics of the group and met some lovely people.

Luckily for us, our guide, Sudan is extremely knowledgeable about so many different aspects of Nepal’s rich culture, the people, the religions, the architecture etc.  He enjoys sharing his knowledge, answering a myriad of questions and is very friendly.

Writing this journal, makes me want to return and stand and stare again at the magnificent monuments of the Kathmandu Valley.

 

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