Friday 23rd June 2023
Riomaggiore : Vernazza : Monterossa
Our alarm woke us at 6.30am; we had a train to catch at 8.14am. Today we are going to see some of Italy’s natural beauty. The Italian Riviera also often referred to as Cinque Terre (which translates to five lands) has some (we hope) stunning scenery along the Ligurian Coast.
It took us almost 3 hours to reach the first of the three seaside villages that we are hoping to visit today. The train ride to Sestri Levante was spent mainly in the dark as we travelled through many tunnels. The first train took about an hour and then we took the Cinque Terre Express, which was a double decker train.
The train was running about 30 minutes late and it was extremely busy but fortunately we had tickets.
This route also had many tunnels but we also saw beautiful views of the Ligurian Coastline, small beaches and rocks where people were sunbathing. Interesting turreted buildings and mansions with colourful gardens were plentiful too.
Riomaggiore is nestled between lush green hills; it has a steep paved main street and a small seafront where a few small boats were bobbing in the sea.
To take the best photos of these scenic villages, they need to be taken from the sea, in order to get the view of the sea, the buildings and the surrounding hills all in one shot. It really is stunning.
After walking up the steep Via Columbo, there were lovely views down over the rooftops and to the sea. Stopping for a coffee in a square with a church, we admired the view of the dense forestry that surrounds the historic village. Afterwards we walked along the coastal path for a while, listening to the waves breaking on the rocks below.
Walking back up the Via Columbo, we stopped at a seafood takeaway and Dave bought a cone of battered crab claws. A few doors away, I ordered a portion of battered vegetables, I was handed a bleeper to inform me when they would be ready. We sat on a bench outside with others; waiting and watching the world go by.
While doing some research, I had read about the popular takeaways, cones of mixed fish, rice balls and chips are some of the other items available in three different sizes.
Riomaggiore is the southernmost village of the Cinque Terre; the village of Manarola is just a two minute train ride away. Our next stop, however, was Vernazza; the small village is reputed to be one of Italy’s most beautiful villages.
Many holidaymakers were pushing and shoving to get on the train. Once in Vernazza, we walked along the main street and down to the seafront.
There is a little harbour and a church that overlooks the sea. Following a tiny pathway we saw some people climbing down a vertical metal ladder into the sea. Others were laid on towels sunbathing.
Standing with our backs to the sea, there was a lovely view of the different coloured houses perched on the hillside. A speeding train disappeared into the railway tunnel, Harry Potter style.
Before leaving the seafront, we took a couple of shots across the bay to the next Cinque Terre small town, Monterossa; this will be our next stop.
The train was running late and there were many people waiting on the platform. A guard shouted for everyone to move further along the platform and into the tunnel.
Suddenly, an express train sped through the tunnel creating a draught that pulled everyone towards the track. Screams went up, one or two laughed and everyone held onto their hats. One or two hats ended up on the track.
At every station, we have seen warnings flashing up on the information screens and heard announcements saying that pickpockets may be present on the platform. Even the ticket machines have a recorded message with the same warning that is activated every time the machine is used.
Boarding the train was extremely difficult with passengers pushing, shoving and shouting. Obviously we moved as far as we could on the train to allow other people behind us to get on and we ended up wedged on the stairs with hardly any room.
There were far too many people crammed onto the train. An Oriental man shouted at someone to stop holding onto his rucksack. Someone else shouted “Watch your wallets everyone!” Most people were holding onto their partners to help keep them stood up.
It was a very unpleasant journey to say the least.
Monterossa is the largest town of the so called Cinque Terre ’villages’. It has a lovely sweeping promenade and the largest beach.
Monterossa translates as mountain of the ginger haired; this is because the once ruling family had red hair.
Its beach is the largest in the area but the majority of it is covered in sun beds and parasols.
These are accessed by a small gate with a large board itemising the expensive prices for the use of sun beds etc.
I saw what I believe must be one of the smallest changing cubicles in the world!
Most people wouldn’t get in it sideways and the charge is extortionate!
Small pieces of public beach are easily spotted by the various coloured parasols.
People were sat on the occasional bench, drinking take away cocktails and beers; to sit at a wobbly plastic table would have accrued an additional charge.
The sea was shimmering; there were speed boats racing and luxury boats cruising along the coastline. It is a beautiful place but extremely touristy and expensive.
Our return train was late leaving, so we had to join the masses jogging to reach the platform to make our connection. We spotted one chap on an electric scooter speeding along the platform to get the train.
We were more or less straight out again for an early dinner. But first, we had a walk along the port front and came across a huge marquee. There was an exhibition taking place with various food stalls from all over the world including Peru and Senegal. Artisans from the same countries were selling their crafts.
I chose prosciutto and pea tortellini for my starter, Dave, sardines with spaghetti. Our main courses were escalope marsala and Milanese veal. These were all dishes from the trattoria’s menu of the day list. It was a delicious meal and excellent value.
Both of us felt quite exhausted, we have had some long days in extremely high temperatures. I was asleep by 9pm and Dave not long after.
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