Wednesday 5th April 2023
Bukhara – Kagan Palace: Train to Samarkand: Registan
We had booked the 4.08 pm train to Samarkand; the journey would take just two and a half hours. The two earlier afternoon trains were fully booked when we had gone to the train station; the only other one that was available was at 5am, which we all quickly agreed not to take!
In the morning we had a last walk around Bukhara, admiring once more the spectacular architecture before we took a taxi to the train station which is situated 12 kilometres outside Bukhara in a small city named Kagan.
After dropping off our luggage at the storage place we walked the short distance to the Kagan Palace. The four of us had calculated a couple of hours to see this palace.
It was apparently built at the end of the 19th century by order of the Emir of Bukhara in order to entertain Tsar Nicholas ΙΙ on his visit to Bukhara.
It is an imposing building with an eclectic mix of Russian, Moorish and other architectural styles.
A couple of local women had the key to the Palace and for a nominal fee they opened the doors and led us up a narrow stone staircase to an impressive room
They showed us a total of just six rooms, explaining that many others were in a state of disrepair and crumbling so access was therefore prohibited.
They added that they were waiting for UNESCO who were going to completely renovate the palace.
In a couple of the rooms, the artwork was indeed in need of restoration but the palace was worth seeing. The tour took just half an hour so we had time to kill before our train.
It was interesting chatting to various folk as we waited on the platform. The train was running around 30 minutes late.
A guy chatted to us who was from Baku in Azerbaijan telling us that we should visit his city.
When the train arrived a huge group that were all carrying the same bags emblazoned with the words ‘Uzbekistan Travel’ disembarked from the train. They were all dressed similarly and we wondered if they had been on a pilgrimage.
An even larger group met the travellers, gave them flowers, hugged and kissed them and appeared to be congratulating them. Later we learnt that it wasn’t the time for the Haj so they were not returning from Mecca.
A guard on the platform approached us and asked if we would like to travel in the VIP carriage for an extra charge. Thanking him for the offer, we declined, we were quite happy travelling with the hoi polloi!
It was dark and drizzling when we arrived in Samarkand, we located the hotel, left our bags and headed directly to the Registan.
Our first view of the Registan was during some sort of light show, not something either of us are really into. However, all of us exclaimed “Wow” when we saw this incredible ensemble in the heart of ancient Samarkand.
Eventually, we tore ourselves away from the incredible sight and went in search of dinner. The menu outside the Labi G’or restaurant suited all of us so we went inside and ordered what turned out to be a delicious meal accompanied with some rather warm white wine. The Uzbeks don’t seem to chill their wine but hey, we are here in Samarkand!
After leaving the restaurant we walked back to the Registan, we just couldn’t resist! The colourful lights were no longer illuminating the ensemble so we took some more shots.
Checking in at the hotel was a little tiresome. The receptionist spoke rapid Uzbek into a translator app and then quickly showed Dave and Pete the translation on her phone before speaking rapidly again. She was giving us information regarding breakfast times and asking about what currency we would pay in etc.
However, one translation was rather alarming! It read ‘3 bodies in the room Bro’. Thankfully it wasn’t either of our rooms.
It was just before midnight when we got to our rooms.
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