Sunday 13th April 2025

Bosphorus Cruise : Sultanahmet Mosque

Our boat tour didn’t start until 10am, so after breakfast we walked along the Golden Horn. This is the name of the waterway that divides old and new Istanbul, it is also the name of the adjacent neighbourhood, the historic centre.

Although it was a little breezy, we chose to sit upstairs on the open deck.  A speaker gave information about the areas we were passing in several languages.

As the boat departed, we had a spectacular view of mosques and minarets. The boat took only a few minutes to leave the Golden Horn behind and enter the Bosphorus Strait.  The strait separates the European and Asian sides of Istanbul.

The boat stayed close to the European side for the outward journey.

 

 

 

 

 

 

On a previous visit to Istanbul, we have visited the interior of the Dolmabahçe Palace so it was interesting to see it’s façade from the shoreline. The imperial palace was home to six Sultans before the Turkish Republic came into existence in 1923.

Just a short distance away is another splendid building.

Once an Ottoman Palace the Çirağan Palace is now one of the most expensive hotels in the world.

Rooms cost around 500 Euro per night while the ‘Sultan’s Suite’ is reputed to cost over 30,000E for one night.

 

The Ortaköy Mosque is a small pretty mosque located in a square extremely close to the Bosphorus Bridge. The bridge is more often referred to the ‘Bridge Between Two Continents’ as it links Ortaköy in Europe to Beylerbeyi in Asia.

However, when an attempted coup occurred in 2016, the bridge was formally renamed as  15 Temmuz Şehitler Köprüsü (July 15th Martyrs Bridge).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A fortification was built at the narrowest point of the  Bosphorus.  At this point the strait is just 660 metres wide.  This short distance separates Europe and Asia and of course divides the city of Istanbul.

The Roundel Fortress is also called the Boğalkenes Fortress.  This literally translates as ‘strait-cutter’ fortress.

It was built in the 15th century to stop unwanted maritime military. The Anatolian Fortress on the opposite side of the Bosphorus was constructed in the 14th century.

The July 15th Martyrs Bridge is part of the route for the Istanbul marathon, making it the only marathon in the world that spans two continents.

 

The boat turned around and on our return journey, it hugged the Asian shore enabling us to see the sights near the shore line.

The breeze had dropped a little and the temperature had increased a few degrees. The almost cloudless sky added to the enjoyment of the short cruise.

We passed the grand Beylerbeyi Palace, it’s name translates to ‘Lord of Lords’. It was constructed as a summer palace for a Sultan in the 19th century.  It was also used for hosting foreign dignitaries.

It’s roof and façade are currently undergoing major repairs but it remains open to the public.

 

The automated audio mentions a tiny islet referred to as Maiden’s Tower as we sail by it. The small structure was once used as a lighthouse.

This islet marks the end of the Bosphorus, where it meets the Sea of Marmara.

 

The two hour boat cruise was interesting, we just relaxed and enjoyed the scenery with the accompanying  audio.

Wandering around, we spotted a lady seated on a platform at the front of a restaurant baking the traditional flatbreads.

This scene no doubt drew customers into the restaurant.

 

After a coffee stop, we made our way to the imposing Sultanahmet Mosque. The beautiful mosque is known throughout the world as the Blue Mosque due to the  blue tiles in its interior but this name is only usually used by tourists.

It was prayer time when we arrived, so the mosque was closed to non muslims.  Many people were sat on concrete benches enjoying the sunshine in the Sultan Ahmet Park, even though it was still a little chilly..

The area is pretty with gardens and fountains between the Sultanahmet Mosque and the equally famous Agia Sophia Mosque.

One of the fountains surrounds has an interesting mosaic portraying both  mosques and some Whirling Dervishes.

Dave and I decided that it was time for something to eat so we went to a couple of stalls situated in the park for sandwiches and soft drinks.

While I was waiting, I watched an ice cream ‘showman’ perform, it was great fun.  After he had filled the cornet with the chosen flavour, he handed it towards a child in her father’s arms, just before the little girl took it, he pulled it away and added some more ice cream. ( I think the extra scoop delighted the child and stopped her bursting into tears!)

However, he also added an extra cornet so when the child reached out again, all she got was the empty cornet. This continued for some time.  Later in the day, we watched another ice cream seller doing the same but this time, his customer was a young woman and she was very good at playing along.

We sat and ate our lunch, many others were also eating al fresco and like us sometimes gazing at Haghia Sofia and sometimes at the Sultanahmet Mosque.

Following some signs, we headed to the Sultanahmet Mosque’s mosaic museum but it is currently closed for renovation.

A few stalls cum tiny shops in the mosque’s grounds were selling all sorts of  religious memorabilia including exquisitely embroidered prayer mats.

The Blue Mosque has six minarets. The exterior perimeter of the grand building has individual concrete sections for the males to perform their ablutions. The female ablutions area is within the ladies restrooms.

It is easy to understand why the mosque is more widely known as the Blue Mosque as in addition to the blue tiles that decorate the  walls, the edifice also has predominantly blue stained glass windows.

 

 

The size of the mosque is colossal.   A portion of the interior is cordoned off for the faithful to pray.  Obviously, everyone cannot always make the prayer times which change daily.

There are about 30 men in the prayer area at the moment, a couple of them have their young sons with them.

I am pleased that the area is closed off, and indeed completely closed at the scheduled prayer times as there are hundreds of people outside the area with their phones high above their heads taking photographs.

I can however, completely understand the many folk wishing to capture memories of this mosque, as it is indeed beautiful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Construction for this building commenced in 1609.  It took just seven years to be completed.

The mosque’s exterior is also marvellous.

 

 

 

 

 

Our next intention was to take the tram from nearby the Blue Mosque over the Galata Bridge to Taksim Square.  From there we planned to walk the pedestrianised Istiklal Street.

However, as we left the mosque we saw that a huge crowd had gathered. Hundreds of people were carrying Palestine Flags, some had the flag painted on their face. Loudspeakers were blaring and people were shouting.

The trams weren’t operating and we noticed a couple of groups of police with automatic rifles.  Deciding to walk to the bridge, many hundreds more people were walking towards the protest.  This included many families, their children carrying flags.  Traffic was at a standstill.

At the next tram station, guards told us that they had no idea when or if public transport would resume that day.  So, looking at our map, we decided to walk a long way round (to avoid the protest) and return to our hotel for a couple of hours.

Later, when we went back out again, the traffic was still gridlocked and would remain so for a few hours.  Choosing the same restaurant as yesterday evening, we ordered two beef dishes, one served with bulgur wheat and one with noodles.  Once again, the meal was very tasty.

Tomorrow, we go home, our pick up time for the journey to the airport is booked for 7am. Once again we have enjoyed our time here in Istanbul.

Even though we have visited Istanbul a few times, (twice due to unexpected airline delays), there are  many more places to visit in and around this sprawling metropolis.

 

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