Sunday 18th June 2023
Church of Santa Maria Del Carmine : Piazza Della Repubblica Duomo Square : Baptistery of San Giovanni : Duomo Museum Piazza Santa Spirito : Ponte Vecchio Bridge : Piazza della Signoria
It was an early start for us this morning. By 7.30am we were on the first of two trams that would take us to Garibaldi Railway Station.
Believe it or not, our first class rail tickets were actually cheaper than 2nd class. Refreshments that were included in the price were served during the comfortable 2 hour journey to Florence.
From the Santa Maria Novella Station in the city centre, it took us a little under half an hour to walk to our Air B&B accommodation.
Our small apartment is on the second floor of a large house in an old neighbourhood close to Pitti Palace, Piazza Santo Spirito and the Bobobi Gardens.
Maria, our Air B&B nominated ‘super host’ had agreed to meet us so we could leave our luggage at 11.30am instead of the usual 2pm check in time.
Leaving the accommodation, we set off to explore. Church bells chimed loudly close by and they would continue to do so throughout the day. It was a Sunday.
Dave was having a problem with the map app on his phone and sat on the stone steps of an imposing church in the shade in an attempt to sort it. Not wishing to miss an opportunity I told him I would be inside.
The church is huge with a long nave. Its curved ceiling has an impressive fresco. As I stood gazing at the impressive sight, church bells rang out immediately followed by a tinkling of bells.
The small congregation stood, two priests dressed in green and white vestments entered and bowed facing the altar and then turned towards the congregation and started their service.
Dave quietly walked in a few moments later and gave me a thumbs up, which when I asked him, in hushed tones, he said it was for the success of reloading the map app and also for the beautiful interior of the church.
Continuing with the aid of the map app, we set off in the direction of the Duomo Square. The route took us back over the River Arno with its pretty views. From its bridge we spotted a heron.
Walking through some of the city’s shopping streets; we noticed famous brand shops, BVLGARI, GUCCI, and ARMANI to name a few.
These streets led to the Piazza Della Repubblica which due to its location at the centre of the city it is known as the navel of Florence.
A carousel with painted scenes of Florence attracts families with young children, a grand archway attracts enthusiasts of architecture to stand and stare.
The first glimpse of the Duomo Square is breathtaking. The Piazza Del Duomo, (also known as the Cathedral Square) with the Cathedral Di Santa Maria Del Fiore, the Baptistery and the Campanile, make up this magnificent square
The cathedral has no entrance charge; however, it is closed every Sunday to visitors.
The tickets for the Baptistery include entrance to the crypt of Santa Reparata which is in the Duomo and also to the Duomo museum.
The Baptistery of San Giovanni is an octagonal building, its exterior is green and white marble.
It is dedicated to Florence’s patron saint, St. John.
Until the end of the 19th century many catholic baptisms took place here.
Nowadays, just one or two take place each month.
The building has three sets of doors. The east doors which face the Duomo are the most famous and are often referred to as the ‘Gates of Paradise’.
Apparently Michelangelo commented that the doors would be worthy of being the ‘gates to paradise’.
The gilded bronze doors depict scenes from the old testament.
On first entering the Baptistery, the first thing one sees is shiny scaffolding which stands from the centre of the floor and rises to the ceiling.
What you can see of the ceiling, which at first glance, made me think “Wow!” is actually a huge fabric cover hiding the intricate restoration work currently taking place.
The cover is a printed copy of the mosaic, and it gives an impression of how spectacular the hidden mosaic will be when it’s restoration is completed.
The mosaic depicts biblical scenes and was originally completed in the 13th century. The mosaic is believed to have ten million tesserae.
Its restoration is expected to be completed in 2028.
Although the restoration is taking place, we are still pleased that we had the opportunity to visit the Baptistery.
As we left the building, we stopped again to admire its doors. In addition to the wonderful bronze and gilded reliefs, there is also carved stonework of flowers and birds. I even spotted a stoat like creature
Our second visit to a museum in just a few days! This is unlike us, but the visit to the Duomo Museum was worth it. The original doors of the Baptistery are in the museum, they stand behind glass, which, no doubt, protects them from the many fingers that would like to touch them.
The highlight of the museum for me is a magnificent silver altar. Numerous silversmiths worked over a hundred years creating this masterpiece.
The scenes on the altar tell the story of St. John the Baptist’s life. Its minute details are incredible, blue enamel enhances some of the scenes.
The work of art stood in the Baptistery for many years, now it is preserved inside a cabinet with nitrogen which ensures the best humidity and temperature.
After a late lunch, we headed back to the apartment for some respite from the sun and high temperature.
The room is noisy from the traffic below, by no means a main road but the small narrow road is cobbled and the many motorbikes seem to bounce on them.
Leaving the accommodation around 7pm, we walked to Piazza Santa Spirito. The stallholders of a flea market were just packing up for the day.
Most of the outside tables at the smaller trattorias were full, and there were rather long queues at a couple of larger eateries. Many folk were waiting outside a take away pizza and bar place. Lots of young people sat on the kerbsides holding tightly onto their tickets waiting to hear their number being called.
Continuing to the famous Ponte Vechhio Bridge, most of the shops were closed now.
Some of the old wooden shutters somehow reminded me of coffins.
A busker was playing music in the centre of the bridge; from here we had a lovely view.
To the east, the sky was still blue with white fluffy clouds, to the west the sun was slowly setting.
Just a short distance away is the Piazza della Signoria; many say this is Florence’s most beautiful square. Indeed it is beautiful, the dilemma is where to look first.
The grand Palazzo Vecchio is the town hall, a marble fountain with Neptune at its centre stands next to it. There is a loggia and the square is also home to a copy of the famous statue David.
Choosing a small trattoria which was situated opposite the Pitti Palace for our evening meal, we ordered pasta with boar ragu, a Chianti stew and a litre of Italian beer to share. All was delicious.
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