Saturday 8th September 2018
Granada – The Alhambra: Generalife
Around 6am I heard the rumble of thunder in the distance and the rain pitter pattering against the windows. The beautiful blue skies of yesterday had gone and in their place, as the forecast had predicted, was a dismal grey sky. ‘Oh no, please no’, I silently asked the powers that be…
Our tickets for the Alhambra are for today, this is why we hate booking ahead, in case it rains! But, hey ho, today it is and we will make the most of it!
We were stood at the bus stop when the bus arrived. The driver shouted at us in Spanish informing us that we were at the wrong stop. Continuing to bellow at us, he waved his arms about attempting to tell us the whereabouts of the correct bus stop. As we understood just a few words of his directions and therefore didn’t have a clue where to go, we jumped in a passing taxi. We were just pulling up at the Alhambra and Generalife when the heavens opened. We quickly unfolded and donned our cagoules.
Thankfully, a few minutes later, the rain subsided. However, as the forecast was due to further deteriorate as the day progressed we decided to visit the Generalife gardens first. Pretty and colourful flower beds, fountains and mazes fill the gardens that were originally planted seven hundred years ago. Generalife is pronounced gen-e-ral-lif-ee and when said correctly does not sound like a British insurance company. The name translates roughly as ‘Architect’s Garden’. Its palaces and gardens were the recreational area for the monarchs from the adjoining Alhambra.
Our scheduled time to enter the Nasrid Palace was 11am, strict rules meant that the time had to be adhered to or the security guards could and apparently would turn you away. We ensured that we were there a few minutes early and scanned our guidebook again for our list of highlighted ‘must sees’.
The palace was a series of ‘wows’- intricately carved wooden arches and screens, a stunning star shaped domed ceiling with protruding stalactites, tiled geometric designs, carved and painted stucco to name just a few. We took many photographs but I don’t think any of them will really capture the strikingly impressive details of the predominantly Moorish architecture.
The motto of the Nasrid Dynasty, ‘there is no victor but Allah’ is inscribed in the stonework in Classical Arabic calligraphy many times. Sayings such as ‘Be sparse in words and you will go in peace’ along with words such as ‘Happiness’ and ‘Blessings’ are also engraved in the walls and pillars.
Leaving the Nasrid Palace, once again we had to wear our cagoules due to the rain. We saw a small wooden kiosk that was selling refreshments; it was built around an old stone fountain. We ordered cafe con leche and sheltered for a while beneath its narrow overhanging roof before continuing towards the Alcazaba with our hoods tightly pulled up. After climbing some stone steps at the side of the fortress we had a view of the Albaicin District and the place where we had sat gazing at the Alhambra last night.
The thunder then intensified and we saw the flashes of lightening above us. The wind gusted and the cloud dropped as the rain bounced.
Tourists sheltered wherever they could, some beneath the small arches huddled together. Many wore flimsy dresses and lightweight footwear. Some were armed with full waterproofs and others had hastily purchased thin green or pink plastic macs at the souvenir shop.
After a while we decided that it was time to leave as the weather showed no signs of improvement and in fact it was forecast to get even worse. We had seen some astounding architecture and considered ourselves lucky to have seen so much on such a dismal day weather-wise.
We waited at the bus stop along with many other wet folk, after a while the bus arrived and everyone in the queue managed to squeeze onto the public bus. At the next stop, however, the driver stopped again and another ten wet people somehow pushed and shoved and succeeded to get themselves on the bus too.
The rain had subsided when we reached the centre of Granada and we headed to the bar where we had eaten the evening before. It was full, but the friendly waiter offered to make a little room at the bar for us if we would leave him a small space to serve from. We ordered a couple of beers which were received with a complimentary small plate of steak tapas. In addition to this we ordered a ‘sharing tapas’ of eggs, ham and potatoes. The place was buzzing with mainly young people, a couple of young children sat looking bored and an older couple were perched on the high stools at the tall square wooden table where we had sat the previous evening. It was a little tight for space at the bar but a fun and happy atmosphere.
Returning to the hotel we changed out of our damp clothes and hung our wet cagoules to dry.
A while later we went out again intending to visit the cathedral. However, it was closed apart from one of the chapels where there was a wedding ceremony taking place. We decided to walk around it’s perimeter to at least see the exterior of the imposing religious building. While admiring the cathedral we enjoyed the classical music which a cellist busker played.
Continuing to wander we noticed St. Jeronimo street and decided to visit the San Jeronimo Monastery that was recommended as one of the sights to see in the Granada Pass.
Approaching what we assumed to be the church we saw a wedding party about to enter the building. So, we turned around and started to retrace our steps. Something made me turn around and I saw a dome not too far away and we decided that the dome belonged to San Jeronimo so we continued towards it. Once again people in all their finery were gathering outside the main entrance for a wedding.
Checking again on the map we decided that the church we were looking for was still some distance away. As we arrived at what we guessed must be the church, unbelievably another wedding party was gathering. A car pulled up with the bridegroom and his parents. The mother of the groom was dressed in a bright red lace flamenco style dress and wore a traditional cream lace mantilla over a high comb which is known as a peineta.
Four weddings, but luckily no funeral!
Clearly, early on a Saturday evening is an optimum time for weddings. We sneaked a quick peak in the church and saw the magnificently ornate high altar; we would have to return!
We wandered through the narrow streets and small squares with tiny shops selling souvenirs, coasters, ornaments and colourful pashminas.
Many of the squares boasted a statue. The bronze statue of what most people refer to as ‘a man and his donkey’ is in fact an aquador. An aquador was a person, often a farmer who in days gone by travelled into the towns selling fresh and clean water from the surrounding rural areas.
We stopped at a bar in another square; this one had a fountain at its centre with a statue of Neptune. After a brief look at the drinks menu, we ordered a glass of sangria and a beer, these were accompanied with green olives and a small plate of crusty bread topped with Serrano Ham. We won’t need to order a starter when we go for dinner! While we sat there we decided to have our evening meal in the street where our hotel is situated as there is an array of eateries.
Walking back, we of course spotted a few more statues. This one depicts Queen Isabel speaking with Christopher Columbus.
We nipped into the hotel so I could pick up my fleece as the evening felt much cooler than last night.
Standing outside one of the restaurants to peruse the menu we overheard a man say ‘well, his legs are brown so he’s from somewhere hot’. The man was referring to Dave who was wearing shorts. The couple were from Australia and the lady highly recommended the ‘pork loin top’, ‘very tender’ she said, ‘lots of it’ she added, ‘I have a piece of it, along with a bread bun in my bag for lunch tomorrow’ she continued. We chatted a little more and the couple laughed when we asked them if they were on commission.
Well, I did order the pork which was perhaps the best pork I have ever tasted, it was served with a delicious mix of Mediterranean vegetables and some mushrooms. Dave ordered a plate of mixed fish which unfortunately was nowhere close to the best that he had ever tasted! We enjoyed a bottle of the Spanish red wine, Rioja, with our meal.
There was a large family group of locals eating at a long table; a few of the males were watching the football match on the TV with great enthusiasm. Dave had a close eye on it too. The match was Spain against England. I jokingly suggested to Dave not to cheer too loudly if England scored again!
My attention, however, was on the barman who was a bit of a showman; he was balancing wine glasses precariously and uncorking bottles of wine behind his back…
We had a fabulous evening!
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